06 February 2010

Paris, Part II: Christmas edition

Ah, Paris.
Not as magical as when I was seeing everything for the first time, but nonetheless there is no denying the city has charm.














Champs Elysees at dusk, with light-stringed trees

One thing I just love about Paris is walking on the sidewalk right before dinner time and passing by all sorts of people, of all ages and backgrounds—little stooped-over old ladies, shoe-polished businessmen, Maghrebian immigrants, teenagers on bicycles—all with one thing in common: they’re in midst of coming home for the evening after picking up a fresh-baked baguette from the boulangerie. It just seems so quintessentially Parisian to have a golden thin loaf tucked under an arm or peaking out from a bag.

Another thing I love in Paris? Spotting Boston Red Sox caps amongst the crowds. Of course in Massachusetts they’re a dime-a-dozen, but whenever I see one on the Metro I get a pang of MA pride. Speaking of which, I am sad to report my observation that Yankees baseball caps undeniably win on the international scene among European youth (most likely to be explained by their highly unfortunate recent World Series win).

Museum hopping

Versailles

Certainly the most ornate place I’ve ever seen. Beds, mirrors, chandeliers, sumptuous velvet walls, marble busts and statues, paintings, finely tufted rugs, inlaid furniture…everything. The gardens are not much to see in December (except for an expansive puddle of slush) but in the summer I imagine they are extraordinarily pretty.

Musee d’Orsay

I liked the Musee d’Orsay right off the bat for its location in an old train station, and its prettily vaulted ceiling.

At first, as I was passing by all the famous chefs d’oeuvres, I couldn’t believe my eyes. Am I really seeing what I am seeing?

But then honestly, so many pastel Monets got a little…vanilla. Reaching a point of idyllic overload, I started channeling my inner interior designer as I circulated among the exhibition halls, hypothetically considering which tableaux I would use to furnish a house. For example,













Pissarro's Femme Etandant du Linge would suit a laundry room












And Degas's Le Tub for a bathroom
Lastly, I made it to the architectural wonder that is the Centre Pompidou, with all of its buildings pipes exposed on the exterior.

I had to wait in line for an honest-to-goodness eternity for my ticket, but it was worth it when I got to the top of the building—the view was awesome. All the rooftops of Paris, the Eiffel Tower, the Sacre Coeur, all out there in the distance…














As for the actual art inside the building, practically the whole time I was wondering, Is this really art? A lot of Modernist pieces challenge my conception of what constitutes art (maybe as intended) and make me wonder at what point a piece is worth hanging up on the wall of a museum.

For instance, I finally got to see up close and in person what I find to be one of the most ridiculous pieces of art on the planet. I thought it was atrocious when I first laid my eyes on a picture of it in the third grade, and I continue to do so, regardless of the philosophy behind it. A canvas, Monochrome Bleu (IKB 3), painted all blue by Yves Klein:












Seriously?

But there were also some really good things. My favorites were the Matisse collages, and Robert Delaunay’s very nicely entitled piece, “La Joie de Vivre.”










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