30 June 2010

Coming home


















Looking back at this whole experience is crazy: there were some very tough times during the year, but there were also plenty of good ones too.

Reflecting back, I realize how seeing another culture enables me to understand my own better. More than ever, especially with Fourth of July just around the corner, I identify myself as an American, recognize the distinctness of our culture (both the good and the bad) and see the bonds that unite us.

Here’s some hodgepodge lists to finish things up:

Things I’m looking forward to back in the States…


  1. Ice cream versus gelato. Gelato is denser and less creamy. Granted, both are good, I’m just in the mood for ice cream.
  2. “Caffe americano” versus espresso. Europeans look down on the American version as weak and watered-down. But I’ll take my Dunkin Donuts coffee, thank you very much.
  3. Turning right on red. You can’t do it here.
  4. Not feeling like such a mother all the time. It’s sad how now I can totally relate to parenting articles in magazines…I am waging a war against crumbs; they seem to breed underneath the dining room table at night. The ritual of unbuckling and buckling the carseat when running errands; having extra tissues and wipes and hair elastics in my purse at all times. In short, I want to delay parenthood a number of years until I am ready for all that it brings.
  5. Handshakes rather than kisses when meeting people for the first time. By now I’ve kissed bunches of people that I had only met a couple of seconds ago. When I first arrived, the exchange of “bisous” made me anxious. I didn’t want to mess up and cause an awkward situation. Technique is important: generally you don’t actually kiss the person on the cheek, but rather put your cheek next to theirs and kiss the air beside it. Another thing is that a different number of kisses is expected depending on the region of France—a lot do three, Parisians do two, and some even do four. Forgetting can mean awkwardly getting someone’s nose jabbed in your face, or jabbing your nose in the person’s face.
Things I'm going to miss...


  1. Outdoor markets in Europe. Whenever I go to a city I make a point of visiting one where the locals go, to see the goods that are sold there, the interactions between the people, a little piece of the culture.
  2. Taking the TGV high speed train to get around France.
  3. Door handles versus door knobs. Here in France you open the door with a flattened piece of metal (une poignée) rather than a round one. The advantage is that you can open them up by pressing down with your elbow—extraordinarily handy for those times when both hands are occupied, carrying a heavy box or grocery bags, for example.
  4. The ubiquity of boulangeries (bakeries) everywhere. It seems like you are never too far from one.
  5. The slower pace of living—having two whole hours just to eat lunch, and no school on Wednesdays. My speed of life especially slows down when I’m with the three-year-old. I start seeing the world through her eyes, where the simplest of things are still new and therefore interesting. A walk down the street can take us an hour because we stop every couple of steps to look at the blueness of the sky and the thickness of the clouds, to collect some pebbles, to inspect the dirt and the critters that are crawling in it.
  6. My bathroom: It has two sinks, side by side. What a luxury to get to choose left or right before brushing my teeth.
  7. Feeling like I am in an Evian commercial when the skies are clear and the Alps can be seen everywhere.
  8. The popularity of soccer. Europe is really futbol frenzy land. Traveling around, I find that the soccer schedule colors the atmosphere of a city. It was always pretty easy to locate a stadium when I could hear cheers and boos from blocks away. When I was in Rome, there was a game against Scotland, so when I went to see the Pantheon I was surrounded by men in kilts. In Milan, there was an important game against Barcelona, so all the trams on the way to the stadium were jam-packed with fans singing songs in Spanish at the top of their lungs. Oh yeah, and then there was the time I was babysitting two little boys. They had lots of energy, so I thought it would be a good idea to go outside and play some sports. We tried volleyball, baseball, and basketball. All were miserable failures; their movements were totally uncoordinated. Playing catch, dribbling the ball, forget it—I was feeling like Michael Jordan in comparison. Then we found the soccer ball and I was a goner. They were able to maneuver themselves and the ball up and down the field so easily. My legs were tripping over themselves.
  9. Being shrilly corrected on my French grammar by a precocious three-year-old. “No, no, no, Ali! It’s not de la voiture, it’s à la voiture.”
  10. The lengthened relativity of history. I realized this last week when I was talking to my French teacher. Our conversation was in French, but the rough translation is something like this: She asked how old the church in the town where I live is, and I said “Oh, it’s pretty old, I think it was built in 1826…” She laughed and joked, “Oh, you are such an American! You think that’s old? That’s not old.” and reminded me how many churches there are that go back from much further—while in the US, I think something built in 1826 would be generally considered quite old.
  11. Traffic lights that turn from red-to-yellow-to-green AND green-to-yellow-to-red (that is, there is always a yellow light in between a switch from red and green).
  12. Driving stick shift. I was complaining about it at the beginning of the year, but now I absolutely love it.

Things I'm not going to miss...

  1. Seeing European men wearing man-capris all the time.
  2. Occasionally getting the feeling that I’m surrounded by a bunch of sheep. Instead of saying, “Ummm,” the French say, “Baaahh..oui” or “Baaaah…non” for that second of pause in which they are thinking. It’s hilarious.

28 June 2010

It's all Greek to me

Maybe it’s because my name (Alexandra) has Greek roots, maybe it’s because I love the cuisine so much (spanakopita, hummus, sigh…), maybe it’s because I did a research project on their ancient mythology in fourth grade, maybe it’s because I used the letters of their alphabet so many times in my math and science classes, but for whatever reason, I have always felt deep ties to Greece and wanted to visit there.

I thought I might get sick of seeing ruins, ruins, ruins, but I found Athens to have lots of charming nooks and crannies, like little groves of olive trees or vines of honeysuckle growing alongside a house. Being located on a large plateau, the Acropolis felt like the real heart of the city to me. As I traversed and navigated the streets I sought it out to get my bearings and see it from all different angles.

The best was seeing the city from the top of Lycabettus Hill. I could see little rugs of forest among the grid of city buildings, all wrapped around the natural shape of land, with its hills and rock cliffs. I thought how interesting it would be to see the city develop in fast forward motion, starting with ancient times and moving along to the Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, World War Two, all the way to modern times. Indeed the city presented interesting contrasts in time, with all the right angles of a modern building juxtaposed to the round dome of an ancient Byzantine church.

Luckily I had the most amazing weather: sunshine and warmth, with a nice breeze flowing through the air. It felt so good to be restocking my stores of Vitamin D. Aside from the warmth of the weather, I also found the Greek people to be the nicest in all of Europe. Everywhere I went, shopkeepers in stores or little old ladies on park benches were ready to strike up a friendly conversation.







Au revoir, Paris!
















Leaving Paris, I couldn’t help but thinking of…
  • the smell of crepes from street vendors sizzling with the sweet scent of melting Nutella

  • street performers with their violins and accordions in the hallways of the Metro

  • the whiz of the subway as it picks up some speed

Well, the last two things exist in other cities as well, but Paris really has a magic of its own.



















New York? No, Paris. Funny story: After France gave the US the original Statue of Liberty, the US reciprocated the gift with a mini version (that is located on one of the islands of La Seine).

Cote d'Azur

Nice is nice. Actually, it’s more than that. It's downright gorgeous.

The train ride there alone was beautiful, going through the hills of Provence. Red tile roofed houses are built into the face of the rock alongside the ocean, which then descends down to the Mediterranean. The vividness of the blue water is so striking, and the sunshine bathes all the buildings in a lovely light. No wonder it has been favored by so many painters over the years.

I even passed by Le Pont d’Avignon (from the famous song) but was disappointed to find out that it wasn’t in fact the original.

One of my favorite memories: eating dessert before eating supper, something I’ve always been tempted to do. We were roaming around the streets looking for a good restaurant when we came across the most impressive gelato stand. Being on vacation, we thought why not mix things up and reverse the normal eating order? They had some of the craziest flavors I have ever seen: rosemary, tomato basic, black olive, or vanilla/pepper/rose (see below):














I was a little less adventurous and tried a scoop of “gianduja,” which is a delicious blend of hazelnut and chocolate.


















The famous flower market of Nice
















Looking out on Nice's rooftops

Yes we Cannes!

Cannes is a great place for one of my favorite activities of all time: people watching. There was a film festival going on while I was there, but not the big one that is renowned throughout the world (it actually took place a couple of weeks after the days I was visiting). So I didn’t spot any celebrities, just saw a lot of important-looking people who work behind-the-scenes jabbering away on their cell phones. I caught peculiar snippets of conversation, in French and English, and tried to guess at the context they were coming from.

Oh by the way, know that stereotype that the French are always on strike? Well, it’s true. Every day on the radio I hear of how one industry or another “font la grève.”

On one hand I sympathize with the workers, but on the other, I wish they would take into consideration the extraordinary inconvenience they put onto the rest of the population: air traffic controllers are super important. Most recently, workers for France’s high speed train, le TGV, went on strike. The result? My trip was extended an extra day. Not the end of the world, as I got an extra day of sun and beach, but not so great that I had to pay another day at the hotel.



















Me & George















My yacht

Hot dog, French-style

On a trip to Chamonix, the ski town of Mont Blanc, we stopped by a little restaurant for a quick bite to eat.

One of the girls ordered a “hot dog américain”—that is, a hot dog explicitly labeled as American. When it came out, I was tickled to see that it was encased in a hollowed-out French baguette, rather than snuggled between the two flaps of a hot dog roll. Apparently the restaurant’s suppliers don’t offer them, so they had to improvise.

When I asked Ar if she had ever seen a hot dog roll before, she said “No, what does it look like?” Just another thing I took for granted!




Hildy comes to Europe!

No doubt about it, I am a very lucky girl. During the month of March, when it was still winter and not yet spring, my best friend Hildy rejected a more tropical location such as Florida or Mexico for her spring break in favor of coming to visit me in ice-cold, blustery-wind Geneva.

The day of her arrival, I woke up hardly able to hold my excitement, dashed in some breakfast, and drove straight to the airport. I was ready. The night before I had made a sign with her name, so she would see me right away among all the people. Just in case. But it turns out I needn’t have bothered, as a normal person probably would have predicted. The very second that I passed through the sliding doors of the airport, my eyes met hers, like magic, and I unvoluntarily burst out with a scream/yell/shout of excitement while running towards her. I think she likewise did the same. I just remember I was so happy.

But really, trust us to make quite the scene: the people around us were definitely staring. Not that I really cared. An older man came up to us and said, “It’s good to see such happiness! When was the last time you saw each other?” Hildy’s and my eyes met and we grinned. It was clear, given the hulabaloo that we had just made, that he was expecting us to say somewhere in the span of two to five years. I counted on my fingers: one, two, three….Seven months. But really, it felt like an eternity.















Hildy got to see me au pairing in action (not so exciting) before we headed out for our weekend in Madrid. We quickly settled upon what I found to be an excellent arrangement: Hildy was in charge of all matters of communication, with her knowledge of the Spanish language. I, on the other hand, was in charge of navigation, with the map in hand.

For dinner our first night there, we bravely decided against any restaurant whose menu was translated in English. We wanted a real local joint, not a tourist-y place. So poor Hildy had to give me translations for over half the menu. Another matter of consideration was Hildy’s vegetarianism, meaning we wanted to bypass all the meat options. Definitely didn’t want to unknowingly order a Spanish meat specialty, and have pig eyeballs on our plates.

As we finished up our meal, the waitress asked us if we wanted to wrap up our food. “What?” I thought to myself. Contrary to common custom in USA, in Europe you never get doggy bags. Except apparently at this little restaurant in Madrid. It turned out to be excellent, as we were able to make a picnic lunch out of our leftovers at the park the next day, watching people pass by and soaking in some heavenly sunshine.















Later in the day we got a little tired from all of our sightseeing and decided to take another rest at the park. Lying down on the nice green grass, with sunshine everywhere, my eyelids quickly got heavy and I fell into a deep slumber. I was reaching REM when in the corner of my brain I detected a persistent snippet of Spanish coming from somewhere. I opened up one eye, then the other, and headed directly into the stern gaze of a police officer, leaning towards me with an angry look on his face. Quickly I jolted up, still disoriented. What was going on? I poked Hildy nervously with a finger, who was still asleep a couple of feet beside me. She stirred a bit, and I poked her again, this time more insistently. Meanwhile the police officer was jabbering away at me in an angry jumble of words. I didn’t understand until Hildy had the chance to translate to me that we had installed ourselves illegally on a patch of grass that was forbidden to be sat upon. Luckily, the story ends happily, as the police officer didn’t give us a fine, and we were able to resume our nap on a park bench a couple feet away.
















El Rastro Market















La joie de vivre! (from a museum exhibit we visited)















“Museo del Jamon” (Museum of Ham) restaurant—We stopped by here upon the recommendation of a local but quickly decided it was definitely not a vegetarian-friendly place! There were cuts of pig meat hanging around everywhere inside.

Hildy, however, was not able to evade meat entirely during her trip to Europe. The evening before her departure, my host mom S planned a surprise meal, so that Hildy and I could experience one of France’s most famous specialties together.

On the menu: Escargots! Yes, that’s right, we--the two (ex-)vegetarians--ate SNAILS. Yum, yuck. Don’t believe it? Here’s the video of us and my first bite so you can witness it for yourself:

27 June 2010

Roma

List of things I love about Rome:















  • Constant rumble of traffic in the background.

  • Birds flying around everywhere: Seagulls by the Tiber. Pigeons in piazzas, pecking and cooing with their wobbly heads.

  • Big, sturdy architecture.








  • Crazy drivers living up to their stereotype and not respecting the pedestrian right-of-way.

  • Hearing church bells ringing in the distance.

  • Eavesdropping on conversations in Italian, even if I don't understand what they're saying. I love the air of mystery, the beauty of the way it sounds, its gusto.

  • The oculus of the Pantheon, like a gigantic eyeball staring down at me. I imagine it was quite imposing when Caesar was there and rays of sunshine were filtering through.










  • Walking along the sidewalk and making a game of what we were smelling--fresh baked dessert, something with vanilla? roasted nuts, sauteed garlic. Or the unmistakable whiff of fresh ground coffee beans wafting from a caffe...making my mouth water and kicking in an instant caffeine craving.

  • Looking at laundry hanging to dry outside on apartment balconies and dreaming up stories about the people who own them.

  • Italian men not afraid of wearing purple sweaters, in various shades of eggplant.

  • Campo dei Fiori--a big market set in a large piazza. Visiting makes for a very sensual experience, lots of mingling scents. Roasted meats. Fresh-cut flowers in a rainbow of colors. Fresh vegetables in different forms, varieties I've never seen before. Wanted to take them home with me, drizzle some olive oil on top and sprinkle with a dash of salt and pepper and put them in the oven for a bit to roast.














PS. If you go to Italy, try their cornflakes. Really. Italians have the best: thicky, sturdy flat tiles with a pronounced corn flavor.